2018Apr Ikea Mirror Barn Door by Willis Chung
Willis Chung's Gallery
  1. Willis Chung's Gallery
  2. 2018Apr Ikea Mirror Barn Door2018Apr Ikea Mirror Barn Door
How many things can you spot in this photo that come from IKEA? I count 9! The mirror over the sinks is from IKEA, I'll give you that one. I will have to use a ceiling mount barn door hardware kit. No wall to mount the typical barn door rail. This means having to add header and footer panels to the mirror.
This would you would see from inside the bathroom with the door closed. Not too bad, a bit "IKEAish."
This barn door won't be used that much, since we use the master bathroom just two times a day. Once in a while one of us sleeps in or goes to bed late, so the door will be used then. We don't have enough wall space elsewhere in the house to move the painting, so I am choosing to keep it there. I am going to set up the barn door rail and rollers so that I can cut the IKEA Kvartal curtain rail in the future and have the door reach all the way to the wall. I will also buy a few more of the Kvartal ceiling mounts to have on hand should IKEA discontinue the product.
I was thinking of staining these pine surface panels with a white oak stain to match a closet door in the master bathroom that I had made from the side panels of an Askvoll wardrobe. I didn't have any more of the side panels left, which would have been ideal as header and footer panels for the door. I found that I had the thin back panel for the inside of the wardrobe left over that has the White Oak finish. I used it as veneer to cover the plywood panels. This makes a perfect match with the closet door made from the Askvoll side panels..
I just didn't feel like getting the circular saw out and doing the tape/score/cut face down on a melamine board to keep the white oak melamine finish intact. This was a bit faster, I thought. I cut over a pine board that you can't see, and changed the blade often. Careful calculation showed that I did not have enough material if I put the grain of the Askvoll panel lengthwise. There was plenty if I used the panel vertically and cut multiple short vertical strips.
Do this outside if possible! Using lots of contact cement gives off lots of interesting vapors.
A bit of a gap in the veneer at the bottom edge of the header panel. A bit of almond caulk will take care of that!
These cost $25 each, the third most expensive item in the project, after the barn door kit ($190) and mirror ($99 many many years ago). The 1/16th thick L-rails were only $10, but felt too flimsy. I am glad that I used these thicker ones, they make the finished door quite solid feeling.
Using the doweling jig with a nylon spacer to fill the drill guide allowed me to drill holes a precise distance from the back or side of the aluminum uprights. The drill guides in the doweling kit are much too large for the 9/32 inch drill bit to make the pilot holes for the #12 screws I will use. A 1/4 inch outer diameter nylon spacer for a #6 bolt precisely aligns the drill bit.
You see my beat up cordless drill here. This went much more quickly once I switched to my corded hammer drill (not in hammer mode).
Any misalignment of the flat head screws would show up easily on the exposed edges and back of the uprights. The jig improves confidence in putting the screws in properly.
I used 2 inch long screws on the sides to attach the header and footer to the uprights. I used 1 1/2 inch long screws on the back to attach the mirror to the uprights.
Extremely sturdy with the 1/8 inch thick aluminum uprights.
We have owned the Mongstad mirror for years, and it has gotten a bit dinged up.
I am using this modern chrome ceiling mount rail system purchased from Amaxon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IZCJ5AU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I want to put the screws for the brackets for the rail squarely in the center of the joists.
The level is level, but the right side of the 4 foot long level is 1/4 inches below the ceiling. I will need to shim the brackets once I get their position on the ceiling set.
The pre-drilled holes for the 4 brackets are spaced evenly, but don't line up with the joists. I didn't want to rely on hollow wall anchors or toggle bolts to hold the brackets for a door in the ceiling. I am drilling new holes on the back side of the rail. which will become the new front of the rail Two of the pre-drilled holes in the new back will be visible from inside the bathroom, but I will plug them for a more finished look. I did manage to get 2 of the 4 holes drilled in proper alignment on the first try. The other two holes had to be lengthened using a Dremel tool with a grinding bit.
There is a short metal cylinder inside the steel rail, with a hole through it drilled and tapped for the M8 x 1.25 bolt. A nice clean look.
This kit comes with incorrect measurements in the instructions, and previous reviewers have had to redrill and patch their doors. Best to take a board and drill candidate holes and run the board back and forth to make sure the rollers are in a good spot. The spacing from the left edge of the door will allow the door to reach the wall if the curtain rail is cut. A fancy stopper supplied with the rail is partly off the left edge of the photo, and is attached to the rail to prevent it from getting lost. If the rail is cut, this will stop the door just before it touches the wall.
Drilling over the melamine roller test panel to prevent tearing of the veneer on the back side.
The header panel is thinner than most standard doors, so I had to get shorter 8mm x 1.25 bolts.
I actually didn't think about this until I had gotten this far. Happily it is easy to roll the door off the rail and 8 screws take the rail off the brackets.
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