2018Apr Ikea Mirror Barn Door by Willis Chung by Willis...
Willis Chung's Gallery
  1. Willis Chung's Gallery
  2. 2018Apr Ikea Mirror Barn Door2018Apr Ikea Mirror Barn Door
  3. Master bathroom has never had a door separating it from the master bedroom. Inconvenient...Master bathroom has never had a door separating it from the master bedroom.  Inconvenient...

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Master bathroom has never had a door separating it from the master bedroom.  Inconvenient...
The Mongstad mirror from IKEA has stood next to the opening for many years. I could make it a door! (How many things can you spot in this photo that come from IKEA?  I count 9! The mirror over the sinks is from IKEA, I'll give you that one.

I will have to use a ceiling mount barn door hardware kit.  No wall to mount the typical barn door rail. This means having to add header and footer panels to the mirror.)
Laying down the mirror on its front to measure it and confirm that it is an IKEA product. (This would you would see from inside the bathroom with the door closed.  Not too bad, a bit "IKEAish.")
Yup, IKEA!
Wall ready to patch and paint. I am leaving the IKEA curtain rail and painting in place. (This barn door won't be used that much, since we use the master bathroom just two times a day. Once in a while one of us sleeps in or goes to bed late, so the door will be used then.  We don't have enough wall space elsewhere in the house to move the painting, so I am choosing to keep it there.  

I am going to set up the barn door rail and rollers so that I can cut the IKEA Kvartal curtain rail in the future and have the door reach all the way to the wall.  I will also buy a few more of the Kvartal ceiling mounts to have on hand should IKEA discontinue the product.)
Header and footer panels of 5/8 inch interior plywood. White Oak back panel from Askvoll wardrobe. (I was thinking of staining these pine surface panels with a white oak stain to match a closet door in the master bathroom that I had made from the side panels of an Askvoll wardrobe.  I didn't have any more of the side panels left, which would have been ideal as header and footer panels for the door.

I found that I had the thin back panel for the inside of the wardrobe left over that has the White Oak finish. I used it as veneer to cover the plywood panels. This makes a perfect match with the closet door made from the Askvoll side panels..)
Using the header panel as a guide to cut the Askvoll back panel. Many firm passes with utility knife (I just didn't feel like getting the circular saw out and doing the tape/score/cut face down on a melamine board to keep the white oak melamine finish intact.  This was a bit faster, I thought.  

I cut over a pine board that you can't see, and changed the blade often.

Careful calculation showed that I did not have enough material if I put the grain of the Askvoll panel lengthwise. There was plenty if I used the panel vertically and cut multiple short vertical strips.)
Test fitting the cut Askvoll veneer panels on the header board.
Contact cement applied, 20 minutes to dry... (Do this outside if possible! Using lots of contact cement gives off lots of interesting vapors.)
Askvoll veneer panels glued on.  I used an orbital sander to remove excess veneer.
Footer panel with veneer glued on.
Finished header and footer panels. (A bit of a gap in the veneer at the bottom edge of the header panel.  A bit of almond caulk will take care of that!)
Aluminium L-rails for the sides, 1 inch on each side, 1/8 inch thick. Easy to cut in miter box (These cost $25 each, the third most expensive item in the project, after the barn door kit ($190) and mirror ($99 many many years ago).  The 1/16th thick L-rails were only $10, but felt too flimsy.  I am glad that I used these thicker ones, they make the finished door quite solid feeling.)
Doweling jig to drilling pilot holes in aluminum uprights for header/footer panels and mirror. (Using the doweling jig with a  nylon spacer to fill the drill guide allowed me to drill holes a precise distance from the back or side of the aluminum uprights.  

The drill guides in the doweling kit are much too large for the  9/32 inch drill bit to make the pilot holes for the #12 screws I will use.  A 1/4 inch outer diameter nylon spacer for a #6 bolt precisely aligns the drill bit.)
Each pilot hole is enlarged with a countersink to allow  the flat head #12 screws to sit flush. (You see my beat up cordless drill here. This went much more quickly once I switched to my corded hammer drill (not in hammer mode).)
Series of completed holes in the aluminum upright.
Putting the pieces in position with the mirror face down.
Using the doweling jig to make centered and parallel pilot holes. (Any misalignment of  the flat head screws would show up easily on the exposed edges and back of the uprights. The jig improves confidence in putting the screws in properly.)
Driving the 2 inch long #12 screws flush with the surface of the uprights.  This hole is a bit deep. (I used 2 inch long screws on the sides to attach the header and footer to the uprights.

I used 1  1/2 inch long screws on the back to attach the mirror to the uprights.)
Completed door panel with White Oak veneer from back panel of an Askvoll wardrobe. (Extremely sturdy with the 1/8 inch thick aluminum uprights.)
Assembled door with white oak header panel held to mirror with aluminum uprights.
Assembled door with white oak footer panel held to mirror with aluminum uprights. (We have owned the Mongstad mirror for years, and it has gotten a bit dinged up.)
I use Scotch Blue masking tape for these projects. Comes off easily without leaving any goo behind. (I am using this modern chrome ceiling mount rail system purchased from Amaxon:

Using a stud finder, I locate the joists in the ceiling. They are on 24 inch centers.
I verify the exact location of the joist by drilling small holes through the drywall. (I want to put the screws for the brackets for the rail squarely in the center of the joists.)
I learn online that if the rail is not level, the door will slide slowly downhill. (The level is level, but the right side of the 4 foot long level is 1/4 inches below the ceiling. I will need to shim the brackets once I get their position on the ceiling set.)
Installing the brackets with predrilled pilot holes in the joists.
Brackets up! Now to level them. There is a gentle slope downwards to the left.
Making shims out of paint stir sticks. I also used popsicle sticks bought in the paint section.
This is the biggest shim needed. Note filled holes from drilling to find the  joist edge.
Adjusting placement of the anchors on the rail. Original placement didn't line up with the joists. (The pre-drilled holes for the 4 brackets are spaced evenly, but don't line up with the joists.  I didn't want to rely on hollow wall anchors or toggle bolts to hold the brackets for a door in the ceiling.

I am drilling new holes on the back side of the rail. which will become the new front of the rail  Two of the pre-drilled holes in the new back will be visible from inside the bathroom, but I will plug them for a more finished look.

I did manage to get 2 of the 4 holes drilled in proper alignment on the first try.  The other two holes had to be lengthened using a Dremel tool with a grinding bit.)
Making sure the anchoring bolt will fit into the new hole. (There is a short metal cylinder inside the steel rail, with a hole through it drilled and tapped for the M8 x 1.25 bolt.  A nice clean look.)
Rail mounted securely to ceiling and leveled with wood shims.
Figuring out where to put the rollers using a test panel.  I have only 1/4 inch clearance. (This kit comes with incorrect measurements in the instructions, and previous reviewers have had to redrill and patch their doors.  Best to take a board and drill candidate holes and run the board back and forth to make sure the rollers are in a good spot.  

The spacing from the left edge of the door will allow the door to reach the wall if the curtain rail is cut. A fancy stopper supplied with the rail is partly off the left edge of the photo, and is attached to the rail to prevent it from getting lost. If the rail is cut, this will stop the door just before it touches the wall.)
Measurements checked 3 times, time to drill the 8mm diameter holes in the header panel. (Drilling over the melamine roller test panel to prevent tearing of the veneer on the back side.)
Putting rollers on to header panel.  Needed shorter 8mm flat head screws. (The header panel is thinner than most standard doors, so I had to get shorter 8mm x 1.25 bolts.)
Door hung! Fits perfectly top/bottom. Doesn't roll on its own.
Door slid shut, even gaps at ceiling and floor.
Left to hang on its own, the door's lower edge leans out. I figured this would happen.
II ordered this roller from Amazon, with two adjustable rollers.
Roller bracket screwed to wall, door now is perfectly vertical and slides smoothly.
The floor roller isn't too obtrusive.
Ooops!  I forgot to cut the right end of the rail off to clear the bifold closet doors. (I actually didn't think about this until I had gotten this far.  Happily it is easy to roll the door off the rail and 8 screws take the rail off the brackets.)
Using a tubing cutter to make a clean cut in the steel rail. Oil helps cool the cutting wheel.
Many many turns around the rail, tightening the cutting wheel just a bit each time. Smooth cut!
Trim cap back on the end of the rail.
Rail back up and door back on. Using a pipe clamp as a stopper on the left.
Mirror door in place, right sided stopper in place at the end of the rail.
Marking holes for tubular steel barn door handle. Mix of English and Metric measurements.
8mm holes drilled. The panel is hollow, limiting tightening of screws.  Need to use threadlocker.
Door handle installed on front.
Shallow matching door pull installed in rear. Hand tighten the bolts!
Bracket holes in back side of rail filled with 3/8 inch snap in plug. I will paint these silver.
Finished project, door open.
A more dressed up look than having the mirror leaning against the wall.
Door closed with curtain pulled across. Time to clean up!

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