2016Oct IKEA Bathroom Remodel by Willis Chung
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  1. Willis Chung's Gallery
  2. 2016Oct IKEA Bathroom Remodel2016Oct IKEA Bathroom Remodel
Built in cabinet 71 inches wide, and the tile floor goes up to the bottom of the cabinets, not under it. Big countertop as well. None of these items is standard at a Home Depot or Lowe's
The old mirror has to go, there is an area that has lost it's silvering. It is small, about 1/4 inch in diameter, but it is low and in an area that is easily seen. You can't not see it once you've spotted it.
Can you spot the unsilvered part of the mirror on the lower left? It looks like there is a black spot on the edge of the door trim closest to the countertop. Now try not finding that spot in the other photos.
Did you find the spot on the mirror?
I am not sure how the new cabinets will sit on the base, so I will build one to test fit in the space before making a decision on the base.
The original cabinet and countertop were way too low. By raising the new countertop to the bottom of the edge of the mirror, the vessel sinks will rise up enough to make it comfortable for an adult to use the sinks.
US wood stud standard dimension is 2x4 inches before finishing. It becomes 1 5/8 x 3 5/8 inches once finished.
I used all the tricks for cutting laminated MDF: 1) the circular saw is going to rest on the unfinished side so the teeth rip upwards into the laminate, 2) tape on the cut line, and 3) heavily score the cut line with a utility knife.
Used the old marble backsplash finished edge as my straightedge.
I am just about to make a bit of a mistake that you will see in the later photos.
The mistake I made was not supporting the cutoff piece. When I got to the end of the cut, it rotated downward and pulled off a piece of the finished surface of the countertop!
I am just about to make another mistake. Pulling the countertop out, I pulled on the middle of the board across the front and broke it.
Options: 1) buy another cabinet for this one piece. 2) find something else at IKEA that uses this material and is less expensive. Time for another trip back to IKEA.
Dimensions worked out perfectly! Countertop is snug underneath the mirror. Haven't replaced the mirror yet (can you find the spot on the mirror?). Busted cabinet is on the left. Cabinets aren't pushed fully back against the wall yet, it's a tight fit, no need to push them back now since I have to rebuild one of them.
I didn't support the cutoff piece. When I got to the end of the cut, the waste piece rotated downward and pulled off a piece of the finished surface of the countertop. I was thinking of going without a side splash panel, but not now.
I couldn't find the broken off piece in the cutting area. It was a day or two after cutting that I pulled off the tape and found the damage. Another reason to go back to IKEA.
Sure covers up the broken part of the new countertop. The 1 1/8 thick countertop looks too wide to be right as a side panel. The need for the side panels makes it important to replace the mirror before attaching the side panels to the wall.
The small space below the kick plate will get filled in by a thin white melamine board.
I had hoped that I could use it as a donor for the top front panel I broke, but the drawer sides weren't thick enough and the front isn't wide enough. However, the sides were long enough for me to make the side splash panels.
Putting one in the center of each of the cabinets would have made them feel too distant, and would make the space on the sides much less useful.
Note that there is more material cut out closer to the wall for the faucet hoses.
Masking tape mark where the sides of the sink reach.
These don't have to be good cuts, since they are covered by the sink.
I put down tape before cutting so that the foot of the saw doesn't mess up the finish if it bounces up and down.
I used clear caulk for the cut outside edges. May be overkill, but it is cheap insurance against a small leak causing the material to swell.
I realized the back of the panel isn't adding any strength to the assembled unit, and I can trim the needed 2-3 inches out of it and nobody will see it.
Something that I hadn't anticipated at the store: the drawers go all the way to the edge of the cabinets. That leaves only 6 inches of extension of the drawers until they hit the trim. I will cut off the edge and glue the cut off piece onto the cabinet front edge as a trim piece.
Both sides taped, scored, and the drawer front is sandwiched between two sacrificial MDF boards. The outside surface of the drawer is down, so that will be the side least likely to be damaged during the cut.
I don't want to have to buy another cabinet to get another set of drawer fronts, so I'd better not mess this cut up.
Now to do it again on the other drawer front.
This works surprisingly well. The adhesive becomes dry to the touch in about 15 minutes, and is pretty tenacious once you put the treated surfaces together.
I was very impressed with what is supplied with the sinks. Pretty much everything you need to go from the sink to the trap adapter in the wall. Makes sense that it would be included, since there is not much space under the countertop or behind the drawers. Having a purpose designed drain in the package makes the install much quicker.
The gaps on the sides will get closed up when the cabinets are forced into place. It's a tight fit to get all three cabinets in position. I will _not_ put any pressure on the top panels in front!
I had a few days to wait while the mirror was cut to size. A bit pricey, but worth getting this taken care of.
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